Sunday, November 21, 2010
Unaweep - Plethora Boulder
Really exceptional line on the Plethora boulder in Unaweep canyon; initiates from sit / right hand sloper / left hand undercling... finished with lip traverse right although a direct lip encounter seems obvious. Rhodes is exceptional, moved pad at midpoint and encouraged desperate lip traverse finish... "go dad, you can do it, you have done it before... that's it, wonderful, you've got it!" etc. Awesome.
Monday, September 13, 2010
Thursday, August 26, 2010
That Pain in the Morning
Monday, August 9, 2010
Lunch Workout #2
Goal: Full body fitness with an emphasis on calorie burn for weight loss
Time: One hour
Warm up: 6-minute run on treadmill and light bouldering / hang board
Randomization: Speed sequencing of random weight lifting moves, complimented with boulder problems / climbing specific exercises. The random weight lifting adds full body muscular strength, and is consistent with the unpredictable and infinitely varied muscular utilization involved with Bouldering. It also balances out muscular growth and joint development, for injury prevention and health.
Bouldering: After several warm-up sequences, you progressively increase the difficulty into 2 or 3 more difficult problems. After you achieve your most difficult problem or linkage, methodically work down your difficulty, focusing on good form and a higher number of moves to maximize body pump.
Weight Lifting: In between each bouldering sequence or problem, move to the weight room and randomly select a page from a weight lifting or fitness magazine; completing the exercise with a manageable weight and set volume. Keep the poundages on the lighter side of medium intensity unless you're familiar with the exercise. If possible, warm up into drop sets, which emphasis higher volume, pump and exercise completion speed.
Notes: Lift with your bouldering shoes on. Campusing or hang board exercises can be substituted and/or complimentary to bouldering elements of the routine. I prefer Muscle and Fitness magazine for weight lifting exercises and general psyche. If you cycle the magazines on a monthly basis, you also randomize any particular months lifting bias.
Cool down:
Sunday, July 25, 2010
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Monday, May 24, 2010
Lunch Workout #1
Goal: Full body fitness with an emphasis on calorie burn for weight loss
Time: One hour
Warmup: 6-minute run on treadmill
Transformer Routine: The following superset is alternating bench press with campusing.
Chest: You complete 8 to 10 sets of bench press. After several warm-up sets of 8-12 reps, progressively increase the weight until you achieve a 3-4 rep max, usually around your 6th set. After achieve your max push, methodically work down your poundage, focusing on good form and higher reps to maximize your pump.
Campus: In between each set of chest, you complete 2 campus board sets, alternating hand starts. You match the physical progression of your bench press to your campusing, peaking your efforts around set 6, and then backing off the intensity but increasing your volume as a gradual cool down.
Notes: The awkwardness of moving from intense chest work to full body campusing, is exhilarating. Try to keep your sets moving, but recover enough between exercises to complete a powerful set. You should expect to find wide swings in your heart rate between the completion of your superset (bench + campus) and the beginning of your next. Your campus eye hand coordination will likely be challenged from the transition from heavy bench.
Cool down: 20-minute HIT training. Alternate 2 minutes of high intensity running with 2 minutes of casual walking. You can expect to sweat meaningfully from this routine, bring a towel.
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Thursday, March 11, 2010
Red
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